The Mossman-Daintree Region: A Virtual Journey
Heading northwards from the laid-back little sugar town of Mossman, which is the commercial hub of the tourism and farming region between Port Douglas and Cape Tribulation, travellers find themselves passing through great stretches of sugar-cane farmland with, to the left, a backdrop of the magnificent rainforest-covered hills of the McDonnel Ranges of Daintree National Park.
June to November is cane-crushing season for the local sugar industry and it is when the area is a hive of industry with huge mechanical cane-harvesters at work in the cane-fields, road trailers and small railway locomotives hauling the cut cane. You may have to stop occasionally at one of the many rail crossings which criss-cross the roads while one of these trains, pulling many cane wagons, trundles its way to the Mossman Sugar Mill. Perhaps a good photo opportunity!
On the left-hand side of the main highway are several scenic side roads which meander through the cane-fields and farming land towards the coastal ranges. There is a small pioneering family cemetery on the right and on the left Syndicate Road leads inland through farming country - a turnoff to Finlayvale Road leads to one of the area's famous resorts.
Further along the highway if you take the right-hand turnoff at the picturesque Mossman Golf Club you will come to Newell Beach, truly a "jewel in the heart of the shire". Newell Beach is ideal for the recreational fisherman being situated between Mossman River and Saltwater Creek, and both have boat ramps It's a get-away from the hustle and bustle with a beautiful beach and breath-taking sunrises to enjoy. There is a caravan park, convenience store and several beach-houses to rent.
Back on the main road again, perhaps stop at the roadside stall and sample some delicious tropical fruits which have been grown on the owner's farm. If you are catering for yourself maybe buy some fresh local vegetables and free-range eggs. Banana plantations grow by the roadside.
Further north, the turnoff at Miallo leads you up the beautiful Whyanbeel Valley with its' farms, tropical fruits and famous Karnak open-air theatre. Meander along Whyanbeel Road and back again then perhaps take the turnoff along Bamboo Creek Road back to the highway, stopping to inspect the historic memorial to the Japanese bombing raid in 1942.
The Mossman-Daintree Road soon travels around Rocky Point and here the Coral Sea laps gently right up to the road. There is little surf in the far north as the fringing Great Barrier Reef prevents large ocean swells from reaching the shoreline. Past the public boat ramp and looking ahead you will catch sight of the northern coastline under the shadow of the mighty Alexandra Range with it's imposing Thornton's Peak rising almost like a pyramid.
This range is actually to the north of the Daintree River and the coastal road beneath it leading to Cape Tribulation may only be accessed by the Daintree River ferry.
Next are several turnoffs to the right, leading to Wonga Beach - another beautiful long white-sand beach, fringed with coconut palms and offering peace and quiet. Stay in a beach-front resort or caravan park - enjoy long walks along the squeaky-clean sand, perhaps fish for prawns straight from the beach or go for a horse ride at the nearby equestrian centre. At the first turnoff be sure to look for the model cassowary family at the service station on the right! (There are live cassowaries at the wildlife sanctuary a little further north or you may be lucky enough to spot one in the wild.) Opposite the service station, towards the end of the year, mango trees drip their ripe fruit onto the edge of the road.
Travelling north again you will pass some cattle paddocks and shortly, on the right, there are a number of enormous rectangular ponds. These are for the commercial breeding of the famous, delicious, tropical fish, the Barramundi. "Barra's" are also abundant in the rivers (along with other freshwater fish species) and are one of the most sought-after catches for the fisherman. Be sure not to leave without enjoying a barramundi meal, available at many of the region's restaurants.
The next landmark on the right, and soon to be opened, is a wildlife sanctuary with a wide range of birds, animals, accommodation and a restaurant.
Just before you reach the café opposite the right-hand turnoff to the Daintree ferry and Cape Tribulation (do not take this turnoff as the road to Daintree Village continues straight ahead), there is a small area information bay which is currently under development.
Continuing north the road now becomes even more scenic as it winds through the rainforest of the Dagmar Range, which forms a section of Daintree National Park. You will see signposts to various Daintree River wildlife-watching tours some of which operate from dawn to dusk and offer sightings of, and photo opportunities for, the myriads of species of tropical birds, reptiles (especially the Estuarine Crocodile), mammals, butterflies and insects which inhabit this magnificent and diverse region. All are operated by experienced and informative local guides. The Daintree River alone hosts 30 of the world's 38 species of mangroves and the serious observer again has the opportunity to join an expert guide.
Soon you will have your first glimpses of the spectacular Daintree River and there are several lookout spots along the way. There are times when the water is mirror-calm and creates an almost magical reflection of the scenery. Another certain photo-opportunity!
You will also pass retreat accommodation and a luxury resort, also a restaurant in a lovely tropical setting, before crossing the dark and mysterious-looking Barratts Creek, a favourite haunt of crocodiles. As with everywhere in the Wet Tropics be extremely careful near river and creek-banks and only ever swim from a beach or elsewhere when it is signposted as being safe to do so. Most waterways have Crocodile Warning signs. Happily it is many years since there was a human tragedy here and it is hoped that there will never be another! On the subject of beach swimming, roughly from October to April is the stinger season when it is advisable to swim only inside special "stinger nets" on certain beaches - on other beaches you will often see bottles of vinegar for public use, to ease the pain of any unfortunate sting!
The final stretch into tiny Daintree Village, perched serenely on the southern bank of the majestic Daintree River with a glorious backdrop of Thornton's Peak, winds through a landscape of undulating farmland interspersed with luxuriant tropical vegetation. The history of Daintree Village began with a settlement created by the original red cedar timber-cutters, was an inland port before the road to Mossman was completed in 1933, and gave it's name to Daintree National Park. Today it is an unspoilt oasis in the midst of some of the loveliest and most varied scenery in the far north of Queensland and has a population of about 200, and this includes the inhabitants of the surrounding valleys.
The Daintree Village region hosts a wide variety of accommodation options from luxury resort to budget cabins, various dining venues, souvenir shops, convenience store, artists' galleries including a timber museum, parklands with barbeque and picnic facilities, a public boat ramp and jetties for several tour boats operating on the Daintree River. There are also excellent guided interpretive rainforest and wildlife walks and experiences close to Daintree Village.
Beyond the Village are scenic drives which take the visitor along winding valley trails which follow the courses of the upper reaches of the Daintree and into the valleys of Stewart Creek and Douglas Creek. Here you will find a delightful mix of cattle country, tropical fruit farms, secluded retreats, host farms and areas of lush tropical rainforest. The cattle are tropical breeds, mainly Brahman-cross, and are now bred for their beef whereas in earlier days there was a thriving dairy industry. The butter factory in Daintree finally closed down when it was no longer profitable to produce butter there.
So, if you are seeking a quiet, relaxing base from which to explore all that the tropical north has to offer, the Daintree Village region has everything you could wish for.
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